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A. Lange & Söhne Lays Cornerstone for New Factory Extension in Glashütte

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Tissot Heritage Navigator 160th Anniversary - front-back

Tissot Heritage Navigator 160th Anniversary

Tissot, founded in the watchmaking hub of Le Locle, Switzerland in 1853, marks its 160th anniversary this year. To commemorate the milestone, the brand has released a new version of its Tissot Heritage Navigator, a world-time … [Read More...]

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Tissot Heritage Navigator 160th Anniversary

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www.watchtime.com | watch to watch  | Tissot Heritage Navigator 160th Anniversary | Tissot Heritage Navigator 160 front back 150 Tissot, founded in the watchmaking hub of Le Locle, Switzerland in 1853, marks its 160th anniversary this year. To commemorate the milestone, the brand has released a new version of its Tissot Heritage Navigator, a world-time watch originally created on the occasion of Tissot’s centennial in 1953.

The dial of the Tissot Heritage Navigator 160th Anniversary indicates the time in each of the 24 major world time zones simultaneously, with each time zone represented by the capitol of a nation within that zone (i.e., “New York” for Eastern Standard Time in the U.S.). Once the watch is set for the time in the wearer’s chosen country, the times in the other 23 zones are easily readable as the world cities line up with the numerals on the 24-hour disk. The watch’s automatic movement is a Swiss-made chronometer certified by COSC.

The watch’s case is made of 316L stainless steel, with either a white or black dial, and has an exhibition caseback through which you can view the movement, with its gold, decorated rotor. The domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal has a nonreflective coating. Each case is numbered and is water-resistant to 30 meters. The watch comes on a leather strap with a push-button-operated folding clasp.

Both steel-case versions of the Tissot Heritage Navigator 160th Anniversary are priced at $1,650; there is also a model in an 18k rose gold case, limited to 333 numbered pieces, for $8,250. All will be available at retail in October.

www.watchtime.com | watch to watch  | Tissot Heritage Navigator 160th Anniversary | Tissot Heritage Navigator 160 front back 560

www.watchtime.com | watch to watch  | Tissot Heritage Navigator 160th Anniversary | Tissot Heritage Navigator 160 blackdial 560

www.watchtime.com | watch to watch  | Tissot Heritage Navigator 160th Anniversary | Tissot Heritage Navigator 160 gold 560

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WatchTime Reader Survey: Are You Willing to Buy Watches on the Internet?

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Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph

Back is Beautiful: 13 New Watch Wallpaper Images

In WatchTime's July-August issue, on sale next week, we present the latest edition in our popular series of "Back is Beautiful" photo features, offering a gallery of fine mechanical watches that are … [Read More...]

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Vacheron Constantin Adds 14-Day Tourbillon to its Platinum Collection

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www.watchtime.com | industry  | Vacheron Constantin Adds 14 Day Tourbillon to its Platinum Collection | VC Platinum 14 Day Tourbillon front 150 In 2006, Vacheron Constantin became the first watch brand to dedicate an entire collection to platinum timepieces. This year, the venerable brand adds a version of its Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon to its Collection Excellence Platine.

Like other watches in Vacheron’s Platinum Collection, the new Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon uses 950 platinum — considered the noblest of metals, with a purity of 95 percent compared to 75 percent for 18k rose gold — for not only its 42-mm case, but also its dial and even the threads in the watch’s leather strap. The elegant, clean dial has slightly off-centered hours and minutes hands, an aperture for the tourbillon at 6 o’clock and a power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. The power-reserve display features a “trailing” or “dragging” hand to indicate the remaining energy in the mainspring on an arc-shaped scale that is evenly divided into 14 segments — one for each day in the exceptionally lengthy 14-day power reserve from which the watch derives its name. Each of the 14 segments is in turn divided into two 12-hour sectors for a more precise reading.

www.watchtime.com | industry  | Vacheron Constantin Adds 14 Day Tourbillon to its Platinum Collection | VC Platinum 14 Day Tourbillon front 560

 

www.watchtime.com | industry  | Vacheron Constantin Adds 14 Day Tourbillon to its Platinum Collection | VC Platinum 14 Day Tourbillon side 560

www.watchtime.com | industry  | Vacheron Constantin Adds 14 Day Tourbillon to its Platinum Collection | VC Platinum 14 Day Tourbillon back 560

The watch’s manufacture movement, manual-wind Caliber 2260, achieves its 14-day power reserve by means of its four barrels, which are stacked in pairs, interconnected and discharging simultaneously yet four times more slowly than a single barrel would. Caliber 2260, with its two large bridges, boasts a high level of finishing that includes côtes de Genève and hand-beveled interior angles. The tourbillon carriage is designed to look like Vacheron Costantin’s Maltese cross emblem and the rounding off of each tourbillon bar required 11 hours of hand craftsmanship. Both the movement and the finished watch have been awarded the Hallmark of Geneva.

The platinum dial has a sandblasted finish and, as with all Collection Excellence Platine watches, bears the subtle inscription “PT950″ between the 4 and 5 o’clock positions, indicating the use of 950 platinum. The contrast saddle stitching on the dark blue Mississippi alligator leather strap is hand-sewn with silk and platinum thread; completing the picture, polished platinum is also used for the folding triple-blade clasp, fashioned in the shape of the Maltese cross. The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine, a limited edition of 50 pieces, will retail for $323,500.

 

www.watchtime.com | industry  | Vacheron Constantin Adds 14 Day Tourbillon to its Platinum Collection | VC Platinum 14 Day Tourbillon movementfront 560

Caliber 2260, front (above) and back (below) www.watchtime.com | industry  | Vacheron Constantin Adds 14 Day Tourbillon to its Platinum Collection | VC Platinum 14 Day Tourbillon movementback 560

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Gucci Takes the Plunge Into High Horology with New Gucci Dive Watch

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www.watchtime.com | industry  | Gucci Takes the Plunge Into High Horology with New Gucci Dive Watch | Gucci Dive soldier 150 At Baselworld, Gucci announced it will launch a new men’s watch that stands apart from the brand’s other watches. Due out next year, the Gucci Dive is an official divers’ watch, certified to adhere to ISO standard 6425. But what is most significant about it is its movement.

The movement in the Gucci Dive is not a standard ETA movement, like those used in Gucci’s other mechanical watches, but a GP3300, a high-end automatic made by the Sowind Group. Two years ago, Sowind, parent of Girard-Perregaux, became Gucci’s sister company when it was acquired by the luxury-goods conglomerate PPR (which in June was renamed “Kering”). Michele Sofisti is the CEO of both Sowind and of Gucci’s watch division.

The 3300 movement is Girard-Perregaux’s workhorse, used in such G-P watches as the Sea Hawk 1000M and Chrono Hawk 1000M (in which it is paired with a Dubois Dépraz chronograph module). The Gucci Dive will be much more expensive than other Gucci watches: the steel version is $8,600 and the rose-gold one $12,600. Most other Gucci watches retail for less than $2,000. The rose-gold Dive is a limited edition of 93 pieces; Gucci will be 93 years old when the watch comes out.

www.watchtime.com | industry  | Gucci Takes the Plunge Into High Horology with New Gucci Dive Watch | Gucci Dive soldier 560

In a press release, Gucci said the move into upper-tier watchmaking shows the brand is “improving its expertise; creating a niche segment of premium watches within its offering.” How big that segment will be and how fast it will grow is still up in the air. At Baselworld, Sofisti told WatchTime no other such introductions are imminent. He chose to launch a high-end sports watch, rather than a high-end dress watch, because the market for expensive dress watches is already very crowded, he said. He expects the Dive to appeal particularly to people who already own Gucci watches and want a Gucci to wear in active settings.

The Dive is water-resistant to 300 meters. It is 45 mm in diameter and has a screwed caseback, stamped with a Gucci crest, and a unidirectional rotating bezel. The indicator for the 46-hour power reserve is at 5 o’clock. The small seconds are at 9 and the date window is between 1 and 2 o’clock. The skeletonized hour and minutes hands, as well as the hour markers, have luminous coating. The Dive comes with two straps, in black rubber and black leather, and they are interchangeable. The watch has a three-blade deployant buckle.

The company no longer refers to the GP3300 as a Girard-Perregaux movement; instead, it’s been rebadged as a caliber by “Sowind Manufacture.” The Sowind Group consists of the Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard brands, plus the company’s movement-making operations and a private-label division that makes watches for other, non-watch brands. These include Bottega Veneta and Ermenegildo Zegna.

www.watchtime.com | industry  | Gucci Takes the Plunge Into High Horology with New Gucci Dive Watch | Sofisti sidebar 304 560

Michele Sofisti, CEO of the Sowind Group and Gucci’s watch division

For more news and new watches from Baselworld, check out the September-October issue of WatchTime, on sale now!

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Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute Blacksteel

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www.watchtime.com | watch to watch  | Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute Blacksteel | Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute Blacksteel 150 On May 24th, 1962, astronaut Scott Carpenter, commander of the Aurora 7 space capsule,  became the second American to orbit the earth and his chosen wristwatch — a Breitling Navitimer — became the first wristwatch to do so on the wrist of an American, earning its new name of Cosmonaute. Last year, Breitling paid tribute to the historic space mission by releasing a 50th-anniversary limited edition of the original Cosmonaute, and it follows it up this year with the release of an all-black version, the Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute Blacksteel.

The case of the Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute Blacksteel, 43 mm in diameter and water-resistant to 30 meters, was blackened using the same process as last year’s Avenger Seawolf Blacksteel model, in which a highly-resistant carbon-based coating is added to the steel. The dial echoes the case’s black color, while white numerals and hands, coated with luminescent material, and small red hands for the chronograph counters provide contrast. Like that of its historical predecessor, the new Navitimer Cosmonaute’s dial features a circular slide rule, operated by the bezel, that enables its wearer to make various useful calculations and proclaims the model’s origins as a practical timepiece for pilots. The 24-hour graduated scale — the feature that most attracted Scott Carpenter to the watch, as it enabled him to discern day from night while in orbit around the earth — is also replicated here.

www.watchtime.com | watch to watch  | Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute Blacksteel | Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute Blacksteel 560

Also like the original Navitimer Cosmonaute, this one contains a manual-wind movement, Breitling’s manufacture Caliber B02, which powers a 1/4-second chronograph function with 30-minute and 12-hour counters (at 3 o’clock and 6 o’clock on the dial, respectively); a date indication (in a window at 4:30); and small seconds (at 9 o’clock). The movement has a frequency of 28,800 vph, contains 39 jewels and stores up to 70 hours of power reserve. Like all Breitling movements, Caliber B02 has been chronometer-certified by COSC.

The curved sapphire crystal has been treated on both sides with a glareproof treatment. The caseback showcases an engraving of the official Aurora 7 mission insignia. The Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute Blacksteel comes on a perforated black rubber “Ocean Racer” strap. A limited edition of 1,000 pieces, it retails for $9,590.

www.watchtime.com | watch to watch  | Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute Blacksteel | Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute Blacksteel white 560

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Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date

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www.watchtime.com | watch to watch  | Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date | Glashutte Original SenSixties PanoDate 150 We’ve noted previously here on WatchTime.com the prevalence of blue dial/blue strap combos among this year’s crop of new watches. Today we focus on one of these timepieces, the Sixties Panorama Date, from Glashütte Original’s retro-styled Senator Sixties collection, offered this year in a striking midnight blue version.

Glashütte Original, based in the watchmaking town of Glashütte in the German state of Saxony, launched its Sixties line, originally part of its Senator collection, in 2007 and has added to the family in subsequent years. This watch derives its name from the large “Panorama” date above the 6 o’clock position, a hallmark of the brand and of Glashütte watchmaking in general. The watch’s dial is domed and made of German silver, which is galvanized in Glashütte Original’s own dial factory. Its shiny azure hue is enhanced by a sunburst finish. There are Arabic numerals, in a ’60s-vintage font, at the 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock positions, surrounded by precisely milled hour indices and finely drawn minute markers.

www.watchtime.com | watch to watch  | Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date | Glashutte Original Sixties PanoDate reclining 560

www.watchtime.com | watch to watch  | Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date | Glashutte Original Sixties PanoDate front 560

The white-gold hour and minute hands are slightly curved to echo the slight curvature of the dial and are highlighted in Super-LumiNova. The stainless steel case of the Sixties Panorama Date is 42 mm in diameter and water-resistant to 30 meters. It has a sapphire crystal with nonreflective treatment on both sides and an additional sapphire viewing window in the caseback that shows off the watch’s automatic movement, Caliber 39-47. The movement measures 30.95 mm in diameter and 5.9 mm thick and has a frequency of 28,800 vph and power reserve of approximately 40 hours. The finishing on the movement includes beveled edges, polished steel parts, a three-quarters plate with Glashütte wave decoration, and a swan’s neck fine adjustment; the latter two features are also traditional to Saxon watchmaking.

Many watch enthusiasts will appreciate the details of the watch’s signature complication, the panorama date. Whereas the date windows on many colored watch dials use standard black-on-white typography, which can distract from the dial’s coloring, this one features white type on midnight blue to maintain the consistency of the color scheme. The Louisiana alligator leather strap is also in a matching dark blue color and is secured by a stainless steel pin buckle. The Glashutte Original Sixties Panorama Date is priced at $9,200; there is also another midnight-blue Sixties watch — minus the big date function, containing Caliber 39-42 and in a 39-mm case — available for $7,100.

 

www.watchtime.com | watch to watch  | Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date | Glashutte Original Sixties PanoDate dialCU 560

www.watchtime.com | watch to watch  | Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date | Glashutte Original Sixties PanoramaDate hero 560

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