3rd generation watchmaker, over 40 years servicing luxury watches.

Watch News

Baselworld Preview: Three Innovative New Bell & Ross Pilots’ Watches

Rolex Repair
Breitling Repair

HYT Unveils H2

HYT, the "hydro mechanical horologists," made waves at last year's Baselworld fair with its H1 watch, which displays time via two liqiuds flowing through tubes. HYT has just … [Read More...]

Read more: Baselworld Preview: Three Innovative New Bell & Ross Pilots’ Watches

Historic Celebrity Watches on the Block at Antiquorum’s April Auction

Rolex Repair
Breitling Repair

HYT Unveils H2

HYT, the "hydro mechanical horologists," made waves at last year's Baselworld fair with its H1 watch, which displays time via two liqiuds flowing through tubes. HYT has just … [Read More...]

Read more: Historic Celebrity Watches on the Block at Antiquorum’s April Auction

Louis Moinet: Rewriting Chronograph History

Rolex Repair
Breitling Repair

www.watchtime.com | watchmakers wristwatch industry news clocks  | Louis Moinet: Rewriting Chronograph History | Louis Moinet 1815 Chronograph front 150The Swiss watch brand Louis Moinet has unveiled an artifact that may change how we look at the history of timekeeping — a timekeeping device from the early 19th century, invented by the brand’s namesake, that may be the first chronograph ever created.

Known as a compteur de tierces — the term “chronograph” had not yet been invented — the device was built by French watchmaker Louis Moinet between 1815 and 1816. The counter’s balance beats at 216,000 vibrations per hour (30 Hz), allowing its center-mounted hand to accurately measure intervals to 1/60 of a second. (The term tierce, literally “third,” was used at the time to refer to 1/60 of a second.)

In a press conference held in Geneva on March 21, Jean-Marie Schaller, the CEO of Louis Moinet, appeared with a number of watch experts to introduce the world to the Louis Moinet Chronograph. The 15-year-old brand purchased the counter at auction from Christie’s in May of 2012 for $67,443. The instrument appears to have been very well maintained, and was sold by a family “of northern European royalty,” according to representatives of the brand. Hallmarks on the dust cover establish that construction of the instrument started in 1815 and was completed the following year.

www.watchtime.com | watchmakers wristwatch industry news clocks  | Louis Moinet: Rewriting Chronograph History | Louis Moinet 1815 Chronograph front 560

Louis Moinet’s compteur de tierces, invented between 1815 and 1816

Although the modern chronograph is thought of as a single complication, it was actually a series of distinct inventions, developed over a long period of time. The initial concept of a “chronograph” is attributed to Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec, who in 1821 created a device that used ink to measure time intervals. Horse races were the prime purpose for which early chronographs were designed, and therefore they could clock intervals up to 10 minutes maximum. Rieussec’s first chronograph was rather large, but the idea was soon fitted to a pocketwatch size. Adolphe Nicole invented the return-to-zero mechanism in 1844, and it was first employed in a movement in 1862. The rapid-reset is critical to the modern definition of “chronograph”; therefore Louis Moinet’s claim that the return-to-zero mechanism was fashioned nearly 30 years before Nicole is a remarkable one.

The accuracy of chronographs changed over time. Although the Rieussec chronograph could measure 1/5 of a second, more accurate time recording was thought to have taken much longer to develop. Edouard Heuer’s original Mikrograph stopwatch, in 1916, was the first timekeeper to measure 1/100 of a second, with a balance that oscillated at 360,000 vph. The notion that Louis Moinet’s counter measured 1/60 of a second 100 years before Heuer’s invention would be an astounding revelation.

The Louis Moinet Chronograph has a silver case with a diameter of 57.7 mm. The signed dial features three subdials. A 24-hour counter is at 6 o’clock with a Breguet hand and Roman numerals to mark the first 12 hours. A 60-minute counter is at 11 o’clock, and a counter at 1 o’clock measures the seconds. The counterpoised hand on the central axis tracks the 60ths of a second, with markers around the outside of the dial. All of the hands are in blued steel. The pusher at 12 o’clock starts and stops the mechanism, and another at 11 o’clock resets the 1/60-second hand to zero. All of the hands except the central one must be reset by hand.

www.watchtime.com | watchmakers wristwatch industry news clocks  | Louis Moinet: Rewriting Chronograph History | Louis Moinet 1815 Chronograph back 560

The brass movement of the compteur de tierces

The counter’s 30-Hz movement is made of brass. It has a ruby and steel cylinder escapement and a foliot balance with platinum weights for adjustment. The state of wind for the counter can be viewed through an aperture in the dust cover. The Louis Moinet brand claims the watch has a power reserve of “more than 30 hours,” and the oiled rubies of the escapement apparently reduce energy consumption to make this possible.

Moinet intended his compteur de tierces to be used for astronomical measurement. In order to accurately record the successive passages of a star through the sky, it needed to have a power reserve of over 24 hours. And by measuring down to the 60th of a second, Moinet could accurately set the distance between reticle lines on his telescope.

www.watchtime.com | watchmakers wristwatch industry news clocks  | Louis Moinet: Rewriting Chronograph History | Louis Moinet portrait 560

French watchmaker Louis Moinet

Moinet is one of the lesser-known figures in horological history when compared to watchmakers like Breguet and Lépine. Born in Bourges in 1768, Moinet studied sculpture, painting, and architecture, and lived for a time in Italy. He became a professor at the Académie des Beaux-Arts in Paris and devoted himself more and more to watchmaking, eventually being named president of the Société Chronométrique de Paris. He made clocks for major figures of the time, including Napoleon, Thomas Jefferson, and King George IV. His 1848 text, the Traité d’Horlogerie, was a seminal work on watchmaking techniques, and also includes a description of the compteur.

The presentation of the Louis Moinet Chronograph shocked many in the watch world. If the brand’s claims are accurate, the sudden revelation of this watch after 197 years may seriously recast the watch history of the 19th century. Dominique Fléchon, watch historian and Cultural Council member for the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, claimed to be “astounded” by the counter. “On the technical level, you have to realize that this is the first time, to my knowledge, that we can measure 1/60 seconds entirely by mechanical means,” he said. In revealing the chronograph to the public, the Louis Moinet brand also displayed a letter from Jean-Michel Piguet and Ludwig Oechslin of the Musée International d’Horlogerie, who said that the counter was “of remarkable workmanship and innovative for its era.”

www.watchtime.com | watchmakers wristwatch industry news clocks  | Louis Moinet: Rewriting Chronograph History | Moinet Traite dHorlogerie 560

Moinet published his Traité d’Horlogerie in 1848.

Share This Page


Related Posts

Read more: Louis Moinet: Rewriting Chronograph History

Watch Wallpaper: Seven New IWC Ingenieurs

Rolex Repair
Breitling Repair

www.watchtime.com | watch wallpaper wristwatch industry news  | Watch Wallpaper: Seven New IWC Ingenieurs | IWC Ingenieur Constant Force Tourbillon 150At this year’s SIHH, IWC Schaffhausen introduced its revamped IWC Ingenieuer collection, with designs and materials inspired by the brand’s new partnership with the Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One racing team. Click below to discover photos of the new timepieces that you can download for your desktop.

Click the photos for large downloadable images.

www.watchtime.com | watch wallpaper wristwatch industry news  | Watch Wallpaper: Seven New IWC Ingenieurs | IWC Ingenieur Constant Force Tourbillon 560

IWC Ingenieur Constant Force Tourbillon

www.watchtime.com | watch wallpaper wristwatch industry news  | Watch Wallpaper: Seven New IWC Ingenieurs | IWC Ingenieur Automatic 560

IWC Ingenieur Automatic

www.watchtime.com | watch wallpaper wristwatch industry news  | Watch Wallpaper: Seven New IWC Ingenieurs | IWC Ingenieur Automatic AMG Black Series Ceramic 5601

IWC Ingenieur Automatic AMG Black Series Ceramic

www.watchtime.com | watch wallpaper wristwatch industry news  | Watch Wallpaper: Seven New IWC Ingenieurs | IWC Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance 5601

IWC Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance

www.watchtime.com | watch wallpaper wristwatch industry news  | Watch Wallpaper: Seven New IWC Ingenieurs | IWC Ingenieur Chronograph Racer 560

IWC Ingenieur Chronograph Racer

www.watchtime.com | watch wallpaper wristwatch industry news  | Watch Wallpaper: Seven New IWC Ingenieurs | IWC Ingenieur Chronograph Silberpfeil 560

IWC Ingenieur Chronograph Silberpfeil

www.watchtime.com | watch wallpaper wristwatch industry news  | Watch Wallpaper: Seven New IWC Ingenieurs | IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date Month 560

IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date Month

Discover more IWC watch photos on WatchTime’s Pinterest page!

Share This Page


Related Posts

  • Jaeger-LeCoultre casebackWatch Wallpaper: Fantastic Faces and Beautiful Backs
    Is your desktop in need of some horological flair? Check out this gallery of timepieces whose exhibition casebacks are as gorgeous as their dials. It's the latest installment of wa...
  • IWC_PortugueseYachtClub_Chrono_150Back is Beautiful 2012: More Watch Wallpaper
    In our September-October issue, on sale September 11, we present our latest portfolio of photos proving that some watches look just as good from the back as from the front. Click h...
  • Seiko Astron in SpaceWatch Wallpaper: Seiko Astron
    In WatchTime's March-April issue, on sale now, technical editor Mike Disher examines the new Seiko Astron, a watch that tells time by receiving GPS signals from anywhere on Earth, ...
  • Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore AlinghiWatch Wallpaper: Limited-Edition Sports Chronographs
    Limited editions aren't just the prerogative of tourbillons, minute repeaters and other high-complication watches. Sports chronographs also come in special limited series, like the...
  • Redecorate With These Watch Wallpapers
    For your viewing and home decorating pleasure, WatchTime offers a selection of watch wallpapers featuring IWC, Lange, Omega, Vacheron Constantin, Ulysse Nardin, De Bethune, Aud...
  • Patek Philippe Ref. 5940JWatch Wallpaper: A Cavalcade of Calendars
    It's the holiday season, the time for giving and receiving gifts — and accumulating next year's calendars for your home and office walls. How about some great horological calendars...
Read more: Watch Wallpaper: Seven New IWC Ingenieurs

Baselworld Preview: Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Flameante

Rolex Repair
Breitling Repair

www.watchtime.com | watches wristwatch industry news  | Baselworld Preview: Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Flameante | CYS HistoridaorFlameante frontback 150More news and photos of new watches debuting at April’s Baselworld watch fair continue to flow into our in-box. Here’s one of the latest, from Cuervo y Sobrinos, the “Swiss brand with Latin soul,” originally founded in Cuba: the Historiador Flameante, a classical, ultra-thin watch based on a 1950s design.

 

The latest model to be added to CYS’s Art Deco-inspired Historiador collection, the Historiador Flameante (“flaming” in Spanish) derives its name from the distinctive flame pattern on its dial. The rose gold case has contemporary, generous proportions (40 mm diameter) but is only 6.2 mm thick.  Inside is a similarly thin, manually wound movement, based on an ETA 7001, measuring only 2.5 mm thick, powering the hours, minutes and small seconds.

The watch’s sapphire exhibition caseback offers a view of the movement’s detailed decorations, including a “fan-out” côtes de Genève pattern on the movement plate, an anthracite-treated balance bridge, and blued screws. The motto “Testimony of Style Since 1882” is engraved around the periphery of the movement. The Historiador Flameante comes with either a silvered “argenté” (pictured) or gunmetal gray dial, and a brown Louisiana alligator strap. You can click on the photos to enlarge them and see the intricate flame pattern up close. More technical details on the watch are below.

www.watchtime.com | watches wristwatch industry news  | Baselworld Preview: Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Flameante | CuervoySobrinos Historiador Flameante front back 560

www.watchtime.com | watches wristwatch industry news  | Baselworld Preview: Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Flameante | CuervoySobrinos Historiador Flameante front 560

Technical characteristics:

Movement: ETA 7001, manual-wind; diameter = 23.3 mm; thickness = 2.5 mm; 17 jewels; 42-hour power reserve; anthracite-treated balance bridge and fan-out côtes de Genève pattern on movement plate; “Testament of Style Since 1882″ engraved around movement

Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds on subdial at 6 o’clock

Case and strap: 18k 5N rose gold case, diameter = 40 mm; thickness = 6.2 mm, convex sapphire crystal with nonreflective treatment; sapphire exhibition caseback, water-resistant to 30 meters; on Louisiana alligator strap with 18k rose gold buckle

Dial and hands: argenté or gunmetal dial with “flameante” pattern, Cuervo y Sobrinos logo embossed on dial at 12 o’clock, hour and minute hands coated with Super-LumiNova

Share This Page


Related Posts

Read more: Baselworld Preview: Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Flameante

Knights of Gold: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Roundtable

Rolex Repair
Breitling Repair

www.watchtime.com | watches wristwatch industry news  | Knights of Gold: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Roundtable | RD Excalibur RoundTable closeup 150With the new season of HBO’s medieval fantasy drama “Game of Thrones” almost upon us, it seems an appropriate time to highlight a timepiece from Roger Dubuis‘s new Excalibur collection, the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Round Table, a limited-edition model distinguished by its 12 sculptural “knights” stationed at each hour marker.

Introduced at the SIHH in Geneva, the watch depicts a scene from the legend of King Arthur and his Knights of the Round Table, the inspiration for the Excalibur family. Its colorful dial, whose design comes from a reproduction of the Arthurian Round Table made for King Henry VIII and placed in the Grand Hall of his castle in Winchester, is made of grand feu enamel. Arranged in a circle around the “table,” replacing each of the traditional hour markers, are 12 three-dimensional knight figures, cast in gold, with their fine details carved by hand, each only 7 mm tall (as in, small enough to fit under a shirt cuff). Looking at the figures through a loupe, one will notice the fine detailing and the fact that each of them is different from the others. (You can enlarge the photos with a click to see the detailed work.)

www.watchtime.com | watches wristwatch industry news  | Knights of Gold: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Roundtable | RD Excalibur RoundTable front 560

www.watchtime.com | watches wristwatch industry news  | Knights of Gold: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Roundtable | RD Excalibur RoundTable closeup 560

The watch has the traditional Excalibur case, 45 mm in diameter and made of rose gold, with a fluted bezel, crown guards and triple lugs. The caseback bears the solemn oath of the Knights of the Round Table, along with a lacquered coat of arms, engraved in a circle. The movement is Roger Dubuis’s manufacture Caliber RD822, with automatic winding, 33 jewels, decorations including côtes de Genève and rhodium plating, and a power reserve of 48 hours. As with all Roger Dubuis watches, the movement and watch are stamped with the Geneva Hallmark. The strap is genuine hand-stitched black alligator, with a rose-gold, adjustable folding buckle.

Only 88 pieces of the Roger Dubuis Excaibur Round Table will be produced, priced at $161,000 each.

www.watchtime.com | watches wristwatch industry news  | Knights of Gold: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Roundtable | RD Excalibur RoundTable back 560

 

Share This Page


Related Posts

  • Roger Dubuis Excalibur Automatic rose gold gray dialRoger Dubuis Excalibur Automatic
    Under the leadership of its ambitious president Georges Kern, Roger Dubuis has spent the last few years retooling its collection, discontinuing some underperforming families while ...
  • Roger Dubuis Chronograph La Monégasque Big Number
    At SIHH the Roger Dubuis booth presented a casino look, consistent with the launch of the new men's collection La Monégasque. The piece that best represents the high-stakes gam...
  • Hautlence Coming to North America
    Swiss luxury watch brand Hautlence has announced a new agreement under which New York-based Totally Worth It will distribute Hautlence timepieces in the U.S.A. and Canada. Launch...
  • SIHH Day Two: Roger Dubuis, Parmigiani, MontblancSIHH Day Two: Roger Dubuis, Parmigiani, Montblanc
    Geneva's watch fest rolls on, and your WatchTime team is on site to cover it. Day two is a flurry of appointments and meetings with various brands, but in between, here's a look at...
  • TIME TEST: Signed, Sealed, Delivered
    How much do you know about the various quality seals and certificates awarded to watch movements these days? Find out by taking the WatchTime test. As always, the answers appear ...
  • Downturn Batters Watch Industry
    The evidence is mounting that the long and bitter global recession is taking a severe toll on the Swiss watch industry. With demand for watches down nearly everywhere, Swiss wa...
Read more: Knights of Gold: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Roundtable

Watch Wallpaper: IWC’s New Ingenieurs

Rolex Repair
Breitling Repair

www.watchtime.com | watch wallpaper wristwatch industry news  | Watch Wallpaper: IWCs New Ingenieurs | IWC Ingenieur Constant Force Tourbillon 150At this year’s SIHH, IWC Schaffhausen introduced its revamped IWC Ingenieuer collection, with designs and materials inspired by the brand’s new partnership with the Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One racing team. Click below to discover photos of the new timepieces that you can download for your desktop.

Click the photos for large downloadable images.

www.watchtime.com | watch wallpaper wristwatch industry news  | Watch Wallpaper: IWCs New Ingenieurs | IWC Ingenieur Constant Force Tourbillon 560

IWC Ingenieur Constant Force Tourbillon

www.watchtime.com | watch wallpaper wristwatch industry news  | Watch Wallpaper: IWCs New Ingenieurs | IWC Ingenieur Automatic 560

IWC Ingenieur Automatic

www.watchtime.com | watch wallpaper wristwatch industry news  | Watch Wallpaper: IWCs New Ingenieurs | IWC Ingenieur Automatic AMG Black Series Ceramic 5601

IWC Ingenieur Automatic AMG Black Series Ceramic

www.watchtime.com | watch wallpaper wristwatch industry news  | Watch Wallpaper: IWCs New Ingenieurs | IWC Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance 5601

IWC Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance

www.watchtime.com | watch wallpaper wristwatch industry news  | Watch Wallpaper: IWCs New Ingenieurs | IWC Ingenieur Chronograph Racer 560

IWC Ingenieur Chronograph Racer

www.watchtime.com | watch wallpaper wristwatch industry news  | Watch Wallpaper: IWCs New Ingenieurs | IWC Ingenieur Chronograph Silberpfeil 560

IWC Ingenieur Chronograph Silberpfeil

www.watchtime.com | watch wallpaper wristwatch industry news  | Watch Wallpaper: IWCs New Ingenieurs | IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date Month 560

IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date Month

Share This Page


Related Posts

  • Jaeger-LeCoultre casebackWatch Wallpaper: Fantastic Faces and Beautiful Backs
    Is your desktop in need of some horological flair? Check out this gallery of timepieces whose exhibition casebacks are as gorgeous as their dials. It's the latest installment of wa...
  • IWC_PortugueseYachtClub_Chrono_150Back is Beautiful 2012: More Watch Wallpaper
    In our September-October issue, on sale September 11, we present our latest portfolio of photos proving that some watches look just as good from the back as from the front. Click h...
  • Seiko Astron in SpaceWatch Wallpaper: Seiko Astron
    In WatchTime's March-April issue, on sale now, technical editor Mike Disher examines the new Seiko Astron, a watch that tells time by receiving GPS signals from anywhere on Earth, ...
  • Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore AlinghiWatch Wallpaper: Limited-Edition Sports Chronographs
    Limited editions aren't just the prerogative of tourbillons, minute repeaters and other high-complication watches. Sports chronographs also come in special limited series, like the...
  • Redecorate With These Watch Wallpapers
    For your viewing and home decorating pleasure, WatchTime offers a selection of watch wallpapers featuring IWC, Lange, Omega, Vacheron Constantin, Ulysse Nardin, De Bethune, Aud...
  • Patek Philippe Ref. 5940JWatch Wallpaper: A Cavalcade of Calendars
    It's the holiday season, the time for giving and receiving gifts — and accumulating next year's calendars for your home and office walls. How about some great horological calendars...
Read more: Watch Wallpaper: IWC’s New Ingenieurs

More Articles...

Contact The Rolex Doctor

Add your testimonial

Rolex Repair Testimonials

A+ BBB Rated

Better Business Bureau Logo

Secure & Confidential SECURE & CONFIDENTIAL
Your email address will never be rented, traded or sold.
We guarantee your confidentiality

Go to top